The sublimated art of crafted ceramics

And where to find them...

Several years ago, The New York Times published a piece in its Style column, titled "Pottery Is the New Pilates." The article gave a brief glance at the lively scenes of ceramics studio in New York City, now filled with younger, corporate troops looking for a new kind of premium "sanctuary." Unsurprisingly, many founders of pottery schools are psychotherapists, or art therapists, like Cor Garcia-Held, cofounder of Bklyn Clay, or the ceramic artist and therapist Ashley Warner.

The ideation of kinesthetic therapy, or the mindfulness of movement, is well-practiced. Take Yoga. Baking. Latte Art. And pottery. Any of these practices integrate a strict form of mental focus, an awareness of the action-in-place (with a degree of muscle memory), and the subtlety of performing arts. It's a full-on experience in which therapeutic effects can be explained via the Freudian psyche called sublimation, or the release of socially unacceptable thoughts into socially acceptable behaviors.

IN A NUTSHELL - Freudian sublimation is the evolution of strong negative thoughts into positive actions with equal strength. Deep in our primitive unconscious lies something dark and suppressed, but as a defense mechanism, we humans are capable of redirecting pervasive embitterment into powerful motivations. And I think, in this sense, Freud was right.

Clay is a matrix of mineral particles, including silicates, iron and aluminum tightly spaced at varying compositions. Clay deposit has a strong affinity to water. It swells up and becomes plastic when hydrated but turns hard and brittle upon drying. Like a therapist, clay is very absorptive.

There are three types of clay: earthenware, stoneware and kaolin.

Earthenware is highly porous and thus unsuitable as a food-grade item. This common clay contains many impurities, doesnot reach a sintering temperature and thus melts at a low temperature. Unless glazed (and fired again), earthenware often remains white or gray. It is suitable to make planters (i.e. terracotta pots) since it can holds excess water and prevents root rot. Natural earthenware has a chalky texture.

Stoneware is hard and durable. It is fired at higher temperature than earthenware, and depending on the soil components, its natural colors range from light gray, tan to chocolate brown. Nowadays, stoneware makes up for most dinnerware. It is microwave-safe, oven-safe and has a gritty texture.

The last type, kaolin, is essentially porcelain. It is the purest form of clay, contains few impurities, and already feels very brittle even with moisture. Due to its high silicon, high aluminum and iron composition, kaolin can withstand extremely high temperatures, and because of high heat, despite containing the most clay among the three, kaolin shrinks down the most, resulting in a thin and translucent surface.

After calcining at such extreme heat, harmful substances also disappear or transform, yielding the safest and most durable material to consume as dinnerware. Porcelain also has a smooth and shiny surface with a soft and delicate appeal. Known as white gold, it is also unarguably the most expensive.

For decades, white porcelain dominated restaurant tables. But in 2006, Alice Waters's Chez Panisse in Berkeley (where Chef Samin Nosrat from Satl, Fat, Acid, Heat trained), and the Copenhagen-based Noma, both commissioned handmade ceramic dinnerware for their service, and slowly, New York City caught up with the trend. In 2012, Nomad and Eleven Madison Park commissioned the NJ-based ceramist Jono Pandolfi (details below) for its tablewares, marking the era of artisan ceramics in fine dining.

My interest in artisan ceramics was influenced from my mother, a frequent traveler and also multi-lingual. She used to work in Japan for two years, and when back, she was set to mold the orderliness and discipline of Japanese culture into our upbringing. From porcelain tea set to UMA chopsticks, I knew my mom had a peculiar style. Quite on the contrary, I was drawn into rustic rather than extremely refined crafts. Ceramics with rough surfaces and dark, earthy colors. Unglazed edges. No gloss. No polka dots.

So I thought today I could share with you (and my future self), a list of places to find handcrafted ceramic dinnerwares in the US. Yes, they are gourmet. Yes, they are not cheap. But a mug or two won't hurt and instead would sublimate your soul.

Where to find artisan ceramics

1. HASAMI PORCELAIN (Japan)

The material, called "semi porcelain" is a proprietary blend of stone and clay located in the town Hasami (Nagasaki Prefecture), historically known as the hometown of porcelainware for almost 400 years. The line was brought to life in 2012 by a joint effort of the California-based Takuhiro Shinomoto and the porcelain wholesaler SAKAI. I am neither familiar with the history nor the craftsmanship of this line, and to be honest, I was doubtful at its quality at first. After consideration and deciding on the medium mugs, I realize two features I really like about HASAMI PORCELAIN. First, the modular shape. The items are designed to be stackable; a lid can be used as both a coaster and a plate. And the other feature was the earthy tone. There is something so charming about that tan/brown color that urges me to get some bowls/plates, but I would wait to feel them in person.

In store (NYC): Still House (https://bit.ly/2ZvBH3t)

Online (Third party): Greener Grass Design (20% off) (https://bit.ly/2AZMskt)

13 oz Mug ($55/set of 2); 3.1/3in Lid ($18 set of 2)

2. KINTO (Japan)

Or The New MUJI. Rather than specializing in one aspect (i.e. ceramic, porcelain...), the Shiga-born KINTO is a wholesaler of tableware, drinkware and everyday items, ranging from portable water bottles, ceramic vase, to rice cooker.

In terms of their ceramics (the Ceramic Lab collection), their items are made of sandstone unique to Hasami region. I conjure that this material, said to be a mixture of sand, rock and Amakusa porcelain stone, is very similar to HASAMI PORCELAIN. Both creates the "ceramic-like organic texture" (what does that even mean?), while ensuring the durability of high quality porcelain (half porcelain is not porcelain).

Regardless of the yet-to-be-testified quality, I have laid my eyes on a few items, i.e. the green HIBI glasses, the KAKOMI rice cooker, the CAST water jug. I can't help but to compare it with MUJI, both features premium items with incredible simplicity, functionality, and aesthetics. Both introduce us to cute-things-we-want-but-we-absolutely-don't-need. Also a gourmet price tag. When the new norm is established, I would love to visit their LA store.

3. NOBLE PLATEWARE (New York)

This list would be a tragedy without mentioning the legend, Wynn Noble. Established over almost 40 years, Noble Ceramics has supplied tableware for Momofuku, Aquavit, Gramercy Tavern, Contra, Dig Inn, Oiji... and the list goes on. Yes, we dine in handmade ceramic bowl at Dig Inn. Unfortunately she passed away last July, but her legacy stays on.

I am always a bit iffy buying ceramics online. But the first time I looked at the Platt-oh plates in Quail egg color (how quaint), I know I had to get them. But the online options are incredibly diverse (with 21 colors, twenty-one), so I decided to wait and see them in person. I need to touch the surface, feel the heft, and see those true glaze colors in natural light. I am counting days to visit her studio in Brooklyn.

In store (NYC): 87 19th St, Brooklyn, NY 11232

Online (direct): https://bit.ly/2WYuRSw

4. JONO PADOLFI (New Jersey)

Like Wynn Noble, Jono was been in the handmade pottery craft for decades. His reputation and stoneware pieces lie at the upper echelon of the bespoke plateware. To quote Edible Brooklyn on the trend:

"Local ceramics function as a visual extension of a farm-to-table ethos, and stoneware’s rustic mien fits with today’s more naturalistic approaches to plating."

Jono has that vision in his mind when he creates the sets for Nomad and Eleven Madison Park. Which bowl to serve what? The 8" square sided bowl with 1.5" rim or the 8" coupe bowl with 2" height? If you ever had a pottery class, you would remember how ungodly it was to shape a bowl, a mug, a whichever, that is perfectly round. Now imagine, you would do 400 of them, the same one, perfectly.

In store (NJ): 600 Palisade Ave #105, Union City, NJ 07087

Online (direct): https://bit.ly/2ZAtURR

Jono Padolfi shares his work on Eater:

5. SHELDON CERAMICS (Los Angeles)

Sheldon Ceramics is founded in East LA by the potter Peter Sheldon and his partner Ellen Woglom. I find it quite poetic that each collection is inspired by a distinct place that has been shared by them. The Tulum Collection features terracotta clay and porcelain slip, with a milky, plum-color finish.

I completely adore the Farmhouse tumblers and dessert bowls in Eggshell, and the Silverlake dinner plate in Classic White. Wouldn't be a bad present for friends, would they? All items are microwave and dishwasher-safe.

Conclusion

I am cognizant that the list is incomplete. I am aware of far many others artisan, handcrafted ceramic studios out there that you could access within clicks away. But I think it is natural that we approach accessibility with doubts. It often takes me weeks or even months to decide what piece to get, for space-saving reasons and because I know money doesn't buy aesthetics or even utility. This list felt personal to me, as each individual piece I own still feels personal to me. It feels like they were born for a specific purpose because I have envisioned what they would be used for. You might not like that approach. You might just get a set of plateware for the sake of simplicity.

But if you stay a little longer in the world of ceramics, you would soon realize that there are many, many options out there, especially if you would one day travel to Portugal or Japan, homes of potters and craftsmanship. You would lose a personal touch to your old ones because that relationship was never established. It is prudent to spend some time thinking. It is prudent to be selective. It is prudent to be cost and space-conscious. Because aesthetics is subjective. And appreciation is uniform.